Esitudiyo esisenkabeni yeParis, abaklami bezigqoko bakhandleka emadeskini abo emishinini yokuthunga esukela eminyakeni engaphezu kwengama-50. Izigqoko, ezihlotshiswe ngentambo emnyama, kanye nama-fedoras onogwaja, izigqoko zensimbi nezinye izigqoko ezithambile, zenziwe e-workshop encane kaMademoiselle Chapeaux, umkhiqizo owazalwa eminyakeni eyisithupha eyedlule owahola isigqoko se-Renaissance.

Omunye umlingisi we-trendsetter nguMaison Michel, elinye lamagama amakhulu futhi akhula ngokushesha ezigqokweni ezisezingeni eliphezulu, evule isitolo sezitolo ePrintemps eParis ngenyanga edlule. Okulandelayo komkhiqizo kufaka phakathi uPharrell Williams, u-Alexa Chung noJessica Alba.

“Isigqoko saba yinto entsha,” kusho uPriscilla Royer, umqondisi wobuciko welebula likaChanel. Ngandlela-thile, kufana nomdwebo omusha. ”

EParis ngawo-1920, kwakukhona isitolo sesigqoko cishe kuwo wonke amakhona, futhi akekho owesilisa noma owesifazane ozihloniphayo owashiya ikhaya engenaso isigqoko. Isigqoko siwuphawu lwesimo, hhayi nje ngaleso sikhathi noma indlela eya emhlabeni wemfashini: abantu abaningi abadumile bokugaya kamuva bakhula babe ngumklami wemfashini ovuthiwe kakhulu, kufaka noGabrielle chanel (igama lakhe nguMiss Coco odume kakhulu), uKanu Lanvin (Jeanne Lanvin) futhi (2) eminyakeni eyikhulu eyedlule uRoss bell temple (uRose Bertin) - unguMariya. U-Antoinette Queen (u-Queen Marie Antoinette) ongumthungi. Kodwa ngemuva kwenhlangano yabafundi eyayi-1968 eParis, abantu abasha baseFrance bayishiya imikhuba yabazali babo yokukhetha izinto ezithile bakhetha inkululeko entsha, futhi izigqoko zathandeka.

Ngawo-1980, izindlela zendabuko zekhulu le-19 zokwenza izigqoko, njengokuthunga izigqoko zotshani nokugqokwa kwesigqoko soboya, zase ziphelile. Kepha manje, ukuhlangabezana nesidingo esikhulayo sezigqoko ezenziwe ngezandla, bespoke, lezi zindlela zibuyile futhi zivuselelwa yisizukulwane esisha sabazondayo.

Imakethe yesigqoko ilinganiselwa ku- $ 15bn ngonyaka, ngokusho kwe-Euromonitor, inkampani yokucwaninga emakethe - ingxenye encane yemakethe yezikhwama zomhlaba wonke, ebiza u- $ 52bn.

Kepha abenzi bezigqoko abanjengoJanessa Leone, uGigi Burris noGladys Tamez bonke bakhula ngokushesha, ngama-oda atheleka evela emhlabeni wonke, noma ngabe bengekho eParis kepha ezindlwini ezinkulu zemfashini ezinjengeNew York noma iLos Angeles.

Abadayisi eParis, eLondon naseShanghai nabo bathe babonile ukwanda okukhulu kokuthengiswa kwezigqoko. Kokubili iLe Bon Marche kanye ne-printemps, okuyizitolo ezisezingeni eliphakeme zaseParis ezingabakwaLVMH Moet uHennessy Louis Vuitton, baqaphele ukwanda kwesidingo sezigqoko zabesilisa nabesifazane kulezi zingxenye ezintathu ezidlule.

I-rival lane crawford, enezitolo ezinkulu eHong Kong nase-mainland China, ithe isanda kukhuphula ukuthengwa kwayo kwezigqoko ngamaphesenti angama-50 nokuthi izigqoko zibe ngomunye wezesekeli zayo ezithengisa kakhulu.

U-Andrew Keith, ongusihlalo wenkampani, uthe: “Izitayela ezithandwayo zivamise ukuba yizinto ezenziwa kabusha ezakudala - ama-fedoras, ama-panama namabhimu abo bobabili abesilisa nabesifazane. "Sike saba namakhasimende athi ayathanda ukugqoka izigqoko uma enganaki, ngoba kungokwemvelo futhi akuvamile, kodwa kusesitayeleni futhi kuyisitayela."

Umthengisi oku-inthanethi u-net-a-porter uthi ama-fedoras kuseyizitayela zezigqoko zamakhasimende abo eziyintandokazi, yize kune-spike yakamuva ekuthengisweni kwezigqoko ezikhululekile nezigqoko ze-beanie.

ULisa Aiken, umqondisi wemfashini yokuthengisa we-net-a-porter, manje oseyingxenye yeqembu lezempi elizinze empini iMoox net-porter, uthe: “Amakhasimende aya eba nesibindi nokuzethemba okukhulu ekusunguleni isitayela sawo.” Isifunda esikhule kakhulu ekuthengiseni izigqoko yi-Asia, kanti ukudayiswa kwezigqoko eChina kukhuphuke ngamaphesenti ayi-14 ngo-2016 kusukela esikhathini esifanayo ngonyaka odlule, kusho yena.

UStephen Jones, umqambi wesigqoko esizinze elondon owasungula ilebula lakhe waphinde waklama ngokuhlanganyela izitolo eziningi zabesifazane zemfashini okubalwa kuzo i-dior ne-Azzedine Alaia, uthi akakaze abe matasa kangaka phambilini.

Wanezela: “izigqoko azisekho ngodumo; Kwenza abantu babukeke bepholile futhi bekhona ngokwengeziwe. Isigqoko besingeza inhlansi egqamile ezweni lanamuhla elingenalutho futhi elinamahloni. ”